Krakow is a very beautiful city – well, the old town section is. Drive through the outer suburbs from the airport though, and it still has that drab communist feel about it. It was about –5 degrees when I arrived, and it probably didn’t get much warmer than that.
I sat next to some drunken lads on the plane who informed me that Krakow is a popular destination for British bachelor parties because of the ‘wicked nightlife’ and ‘cool things to do like going out and shooting stuff (for a mere 20 quid you can go and shoot ‘stuff’ with genuine communist pistols) and go-karting’ (10 quid all day).
My hotel, the Hotel Europeskij, was really well situated, and quite popular with tourists, not that I saw that many. Tourists do stick out a mile. Non-Polish women may be distinguished by their lack of make-up, and that fact that their shoes do NOT match their handbag. My hotel was a quick walk away from the old part of town, where most of the tourist attractions are. Just as well, too, given that the temperature was not conducive to loitering. My room was really nice - about 20 quid, and had an extremely luxurious bathroom, which many of you will know, is important to me! It was actually far more luxurious than my room....
After a fortifying breakfast of cold meat, cheese and bread, I was out the door by 9am, heading for Cathdedral in the town square. Apart from the streetcleaner, I was the only one around. Later risers, the Poles. The Cathedral is incredibly beautiful, and inside it is overwhelmingly ornate. It's too much to take in. Well, it was for me anyway.
It was snowing heavily as I made my way to Wawel Castle, which was home to the Polish Royal Family. It was used as a residence up until fairly recently and is worth a visit if you are ever in town. There are several different things to see there eg. the treasury and amoury (although these are rather disappointing if you've been to the Tower of London first...) but my recommendation is to get tickets to view the royal apartments. Only a few tickets are allocated each day, so you need to get there early to nab one. We got a guided tour in English all around the apartments, which are gorgeous.
I also went to the Cloth Market, in the town square, which sells all the touristy things like amber, brightly coloured folk crafts like wooden eggs and plates, trinket boxes, beer steins etc. I bought a t shirt that (I am reliably informed) says in Polish "Alcohol or Education: It's your choice" which is the Minister of Education's favourite admonition. Of course it could really say "I'm a dumb-ass tourist" and I'd never know...
By this time it was snowing heavily, so I nipped into the Czartoryski Museum. It houses the treasures of the last royal family. It is filled with many priceless artifacts, but their claim to fame is owning the magnificent "Lady with an Ermine" by Leonardo da Vinci. I say forget the Mona Lisa, this portrait is far better. It's a charming study, and really makes an immediate impact with it's dark background. http://pictures.polandforall.com/images/leonardo-da-vinci-lady-with-an-ermine.jpg
I rounded off the day by paying a visit to the Krakow History museum. It was closed, but would I care to see the Christmas displays instead? You bet I would. Well, it was a treat! From what I can gather, schools from the area compete to see who can construct the naffest 'replica' of Wawel Castle and adorn it with anything bright, sparkly, shiny, and slightly related to the festive season. If I had to base my entire knowledge of christmas on these displays I'd be convinced that Jesus was born at Wawel Castle whilst Father Christmas, King Wenceslaus, the current Polish President (or PM?), David Beckham and Angelina Jolie looked on. Needless to say, I loved it! It was truly a wee gem of an exhibition.
Polish food is quite good - very, very basic, but cheap. I imagine you'd get sick of it quickly if you lived there. They go in for thick stews in a big way. Given the weather, I appreciated it!
No, I did not make it to Auschwitz. I don't feel I need to go. The Holocaust Museum in New York was enough for me.
What else can I say? Krakow is beautiful. I would like to return there someday in summertime, as I imagine the marketplace is vibrant (and overrun with Stag parties...). The only thing that marred my perception of it, was the trip back to the airport. I thought I'd save some zlotyl by catching the bus to the airport. I hopped on the bus very early in the morning. I was the only person who got on at that stop. I sat down and 2 stops later 2 men got on and proceeded to check everyone's tickets. I hadn't validated my ticket as I didn't see the machine and hadn't seen anyone validate theirs. Miraculously, one of the inspectors spoke English and told me that I must now pay a fine. Ok, I thought, no worries, thinking it would be another fare. No. The fare was 2.50 zlotyls. I had to pay 70 zlotyls. To put this in perspective that is like saying I must pay $20 for a 50cent bus ride. Considering a meal in Krakow costs 6-8 zlotyls, you can imagine that 70 zlotyls is a lot of money for the average Pole to be carrying on them. I tried the "I'm-a-dumb-tourist" routine, quickly followed by the "outraged-can-I-see-some-ID" routine. Clearly it was a scam to get money off tourists, as I'm sure it's no coincidence that a perfect English-speaking inspector was aboard the only airport bus! When these failed I remembered that I was a female, travelling alone in a post communist nation with corrupt and dodgy authorities. So I paid. Moral of the story: Validate your tickets.
