Easter In Normandy

I went on an organised bus tour of Normandy for the Easter holidays with Dave and Kara (and Kara's workmate Debbie from Aussie). So for those of you who know all 3 of us, I apologise, as you will get three versions of the trip, but no doubt each of us will have our own spin on it! To Dave, Kara and Debbie: Our goodbyes yesterday were so rushed, so guys, thanks for being such great travel buddies.

We went over with Tracks Travel who are a budget tour company, and as such, it attracts Kiwis, Aussies and Saffas. There were 51 of us on the tour and pretty much everyone was really great. Our guide Eddie was a something of a public schoolboy stereotype (the sort of chap who in the old days would have gone around saying 'what-ho' and 'by jingo' etc), and was quite often unintentionally funny. He wasn't at all organised, but he and his brother Martin (the bus driver) were so nice and well-meaning, I didn't really mind.

Thursday:
We caught an overnight ferry from Portsmouth to Le Havre, and the trip over was awful. The ferry had been over-booked, and for some mysterious reason we were the last bus allowed onto the ferry (despite getting there first). So by the time we boarded, not only had our preallocated seats been taken, but so had anywhere else around the ferry that was half-way decent to sleep. We were fobbed off with free breakfast and an upgrade to clubclass on the return trip, but some people got quite worked up about it. It wasn't the travel agency's fault, and nothing could be done. I don't know what they were expecting anyway as the trip was so cheap! We just made the best of it, and spent the night in chairs or on the floor. The only downer was, as I got so little sleep that night, the 'jet-lag' effect of it lasted the whole weekend, so I didn't feel as sociable or as switched-on as I'd have liked.


Friday:
We got to France in the morning, and as I'm a bit of a Francophile, just being in France is a dream come true, so it perked me up no end. We spent the morning in Rouen, one of the most ancient French cities, most famous for being where Joan of Arc was tried and executed. We looked around the spectacular Cathedral, which is deliciously gothic. I was particularly excited to see it, as Monet (my fav. artist as most of you are more than well aware) painted it many times. After a brief stop at the tourist info shop I promptly lost most of the group, which wasn't a bad thing in the end, as I got to see a great deal of the city. The place du Vieux-Marche marks the spot where Joan was burnt to death back in 1431, and is now home to a huge cross in her honour. Joan is a popular figure all over Normandy - largely thanks to the discovery of the transcripts of her trial which show that she wasn't some lying nutter who sold out in the end, but was instead unwavering in her humility and devout belief and was tricked by the darstardly English (boo, hiss). I'm something of a Joan fan, so this commentary is a tad biased...

I had a good look around the town centre, which has quite a charming market, and is home to lots of swanky boutiques and popular high street stores. I was of course completely delighted by seeing many of the usual french stereotypes: impossibly coiffed and stylish women with equally coiffed little dogs out shopping, boulangeries and fromageries on every street selling the most delicious looking breads and cakes and cheeses, buskers playing french folk music on the accordian. I kept my eyes peeled for gorgeous men wearing berets and stripey shirts, reading Satre while they munch on baguettes; but they must have all been out of town for the day. Still, the old guy who I bought my lunch from was nice enough not to laugh as I butchered his language. In fact, I must say, all the French people I came in contact with were very nice. (But then, I haven't been to Paris.)

In the afternoon I was like a kid in a candy store when we got to Monet's home in Giverny. Even the people on our tour who weren't 'into Monet' like me seemed to really enjoy being there. His famous waterlilly garden is incrediby beautiful, as is his house, and we were lucky to be there at a time where most of the spring flowers were blooming (loads of tulips!). It just felt so incredible to walk around and see the things that he painted, still there, and still as beautiful and as inspirational as they clearly were to him - the japanese bridge over the pond, the willow trees, the tall poplar trees, his blue kitchen, the yellow dining room etc. Being there is a memory I will really treasure.

None of his original paintings are on display, but his house has many family photos and his famous collection of japanese prints.

After a long trip through the achingly beautiful French countryside (I'm sure poor old Dave got sick of my gasping with delight at every Chateau/house/falling-down shack. I just love French architecture) we got to Caen, which we used as a base for the rest of the trip. Caen is not as nice as the other places we went but the old ramparts of William the Conqueror's favourite chateau and the 'old town' are still lovely. We had dinner at this funny restaurant called 'Miam Miam Glu Glu', the upstairs of which for some reason is decorated with Warner Brothers cartoon characters. Random! Anyway, we had a delicious dinner of crepes - Normandy being famous for camembert cheese. Almost everyone on the tour was shattered from the ferry trip, so we had an early night.

Saturday:

The next day we set off for the D-Day beaches. It was a gloomy, drizzly day, much like it was on the day itself. Dave asked the guide if we could possiby stop at Pointe du Hoc, and I'm so glad that he did, as it was the highlight of the D-Day experience for me. Unlike the rest of the area, Pointe du Hoc still bears the scars of the invasion and as such it really gives you a sense of the absolute mess and carnage that the invasion must have been like. The area is still deeply pitted with shell holes and completely mangled German bunkers. It was fascinating. I was very moved and felt so privileged to be there.



We went to the American cemetary at Colleville-sur-mer, which features in "Saving Private Ryan". It has an impressive memorial to the fallen soldiers. The rows and rows and rows of white crosses is of course sobering, and I must admit to losing it when I entered the chapel ad read the inscription: "Weep not for their passing, but remember the glorious spirit in which they died". We also went to Utah Beach. Unfortunately it was high tide so we couldn't see much of the ships that were sunk to create artificial breakwaters. We went to see a 360 degree movie that was great and good for people who don't know much about D-Day. Quite simply, you go into a room and a film is shown all around with images of D-Day, interspersed with images of how it looks today. Much of what was destroyed was faithfully restored or rebuilt, and is the surrounding countryside is breath-taking.

We had lunch in the town of Arromanches where the artifical harbour was made to protect the landings during the invasion. The sheer scale of it blew me away - it stretches for miles.

We then went onto Bayeaux to view the famous tapestry. We didn't have enough time there I feel, but then, the way it is exhibited is too time-consuming anyway. Basically, first you read all about on long sheets of canvas (very cleverly done, I admit), and then you watch a superbly cheesy film that tells you all about it, and then you view the actual tapestry itself with your own audio guide. We however, were armed with Kara, who has a vast knowledge of English history - soon to be unleashed on a pub quiz near you - so her commentary was more interesting.

I knew little about the tapestry I admit, but it is incredible, and certainly a fantastic piece of history. The detail is incredible (right down to the men's bare legs when they are in the water, and the dashing moustaches of the English). It tells the tale of how Edward the Confessor, having no heir, decided that William the Conqueror would be his successor. William dispatches his cousin Harold to tell Edward that he accepts the throne, but the darstardly Harold decides to put himself on the throne when Edward eventually dies. A raging battle ensues and the villainous Harold is dispatched to the hereafter by an arrow through the eye. The craftsmanship of the tapestry and it's rich detail of medieval life alone make it priceless, especially when you consider that it was at onetime used as a cart cover!

We stopped briefly at the Commonwealth cemetary which was very moving as the families of the soldiers had all been invited to put their own inscriptions on the crosses. This serves to hit home that these were real people, teenagers mostly, who were loved and greatly missed.

Saturday night we had a brilliant fondue dinner (much effort went into ordering the food - largey thanks to Debbie, who speaks pretty good French). We went to an Irish pub(!) , which was great fun, as most people from the tour came out, so we all had a good time getting to know each other. Having now spoken to so many people who are in the UK on 2 year working visas, I am even more grateful for my ancestry visa, as it gives me the luxury of time. 2 years is just not enough time to see everything, and puts so much pressure on you.

Sunday:
Debbie and I managed to squeeze in some early morning reflection on Easter Sunday, which set the day up nicely. We drove out to the stunning Mont St-Michel, a monastry perched on what must have been a remote island (which now has a causeway) in the middle of nowhere, built after the Archangel St Michael appeared before the Bishop Abert. It is reached by walking up the steep main street of the underlying village, which is crammed with souvenir shops, food stalls and hotels. Being Easter Sunday, it was crazy. Every Mama, Papa, Enfant, Grandmere, Grandpere and petite pooch was there on a pilgrimage, which I actually thought was a rather nice way to spend your Easter. There were shades of Korea though (Erin and Laurence, you will know what I mean) as I followed an immaculately groomed woman in a fur coat, Gucci sunglasses and high heels down the hill. Visually, the Mont is one of the most spectacular things I have ever seen. From its' silhouette is dramatic, and up close, its' construction just made me marvel. Leisha from South Africa was with me in one of the most impressive and expansive chambers. Being at the Mont was a life long dream for her, and she made me laugh when she saw the room and sighed "Look at this place! Honestly, why don't we make things like this anymore? We modern people are just so lazy!" How true.

We spent the afternoon in the exquisite town of St Malo, and strolled around the top of the walls that enclose the citadel. We were all excited to see the golden sand beach (I almost kissed it!) and were granted a great performance by two men who bravely strode out into the large pool on the beach for a quick dip (It 'ain't summer yet!). One of them let out a most unmanly squeal when he hit the water, but the other guy managed a brief swim. The town has so much character. I would love to spend a week or so there in summer - unfortunately, I suspect most of France would as well.

We got back to Caen and had a drink of Kara's wine, and watched some quality TV. 'Lucky Luke' was on! We watched a hilarious Italian gameshow. Let's just say it was an intriguing mixture of "Who wants to be a Millionaire" and "It's in the Bag", only with a muscular hunk and a scantily clad bombshell (not to mention the a sinister cowboy in silhouette), hosted by a Sophia Loren wannabe. Now if that doesn't make for quality tv, I don't know what does.

Monday:


Our guide made an excellent executive decision to include a wee pit stop at a Calvados distillery (the local drink of choice made from apples). A few shots of that, and we were all much more perky! I think the proprietors made a siginificant chunk of change out of us. We had a look around the picuresque seaside town of Honfleur, which apparently is the best preserved of the old Ports of Normandy. I was absolutely charmed by the place - although I may have been swayed by the glorious weather. The old town centre has a stunning bassin of 18th century houses, that now are home to numerous cafes, patisseries, restaurants, etc. Definitely the sort of place where you could spend the afternoon sitting under a sun umbrella sipping en cafe, and watch the world go by. Alas, I had to go catch the ferry back home. We did get to sample the local fish, which, as all the food seems to be in France, is excellent.

The ferry trip home was brilliant as not only did I soak up the sunshine and sea air, but we had a fantastic game of Settlers with some of our fellow tourmates. The hours passed quickly, and Kara and I would surely have won if our ore supply wasn't stopped all the time, eh Kara? Well, that's our excuse anyway!














I got home just before midnight. The tour was brilliant, and I feel so lucky to have seen things I've always dreamed of seeing. Like I said to Dave yesterday "Travelling rocks! I can feel my mind broadening as we speak".